Korean Angelica

Health Benefits

What the Donguibogam records — nature, taste, harvest and quality. The Donguibogam lists the plant in the Herb section as 當歸. It gives a warm nature and a taste both sweet and pungent, with no toxicity. It records that the plant grows wild in hills and fields or is cultivated, and that the root is dug in the second and eighth lunar months and dried in shade. Roots that are thick-fleshed and not shrivelled are rated best; the text adds that plump, unshrivelled roots are preferable and that a horse's-tail shape is a good one. This is a historical medical record and differs from modern medical judgment.

Coumarin profiles across species. Compositional analyses report decursin and decursinol angelate as the main coumarins of the Angelica gigas root, while the root of Angelica acutiloba is led by ligustilide-type compounds. The result is that plants traded under one common name can differ in composition by species. This concerns compositional analysis and has no bearing on preventing or treating disease.

Nutrition

• Decursin and decursinol angelate (the main coumarins of the Angelica gigas root) — the marker compounds that separate this species from other angelicas
• Essential oil (terpenes) (present in both leaf and root) — the distinctive scent you get eating the leaf raw
• Coumarins (widespread across the carrot family) — a compound class reported to irritate skin in combination with sunlight

Where the leaf scent comes from Rub an angelica leaf and the scent that rises comes from its essential oil, a mix of volatile terpenes. Young leaves smell rounder; the scent turns coarse as they age. Heat drives it off, so the leaf is at its most aromatic used raw as a wrap. If you blanch it, keep it brief and do not leave it soaking in cold water.

Telling it apart from jirigang-hwal (gae-danggwi) Korean angelica and jirigang-hwal sit in the same family, and the leaves alone are hard to tell apart. Jirigang-hwal, commonly called gae-danggwi, is a toxic plant, and poisonings from picking the wrong one recur year after year. In flower the two part clearly, deep purple for Korean angelica against white for jirigang-hwal, but there are no flowers in the season the leaves are picked. A foul smell from a cut root is sometimes offered as a test, but it is not a basis a beginner should lean on. Where there is any doubt, leave the plant standing. Buying a plant of identified species, growing it in a bed or a pot and using only those leaves is the safe route.

Coumarin profile of the root The root of Angelica gigas is reported to carry decursin and decursinol angelate as its principal coumarins. Analyses place the root of Angelica acutiloba in a different profile, led by ligustilide-type compounds. Two plants can be sold under the same name and still differ in composition. It is worth checking the botanical name when buying plants.

Dried leaf versus fresh Drying costs the leaf much of its essential oil and the scent thins. Slow drying in shade holds the scent better than drying in sun, which is why that has always been the method. Keep dried leaf sealed and cool, and use it within six months. Freezing keeps the aroma but leaves the leaf too limp to wrap with.

Pairings

○ Wrapping grilled meat — The leaf is thicker and far more aromatic than lettuce, which is what balances it against fatty grilled meat. Leaves picked young, before they reach palm size, are the tender ones. On tougher leaves, strip the stalk and use only the blade.

○ Doenjang and ssamjang — The salt and savour of fermented soybean paste tames the leaf's scent, which makes a first encounter easier. Use a small dab so the leaf still comes through. Shredded leaf also goes into doenjang soup right at the end.

○ An infusion of dried leaf — Shade-dried leaf steeped briefly in hot water gives a clean, aromatic cup. Two to three minutes is plenty; longer turns it bitter. Simmering the root into a strong decoction belongs to herbal-material use and is outside the scope of this entry.

△ Foraged plants — confusion with jirigang-hwal — Jirigang-hwal, commonly called gae-danggwi, closely resembles Korean angelica and is a toxic plant behind repeated serious poisonings. In flower the two part clearly — deep purple for angelica, white for jirigang-hwal — but at the young-leaf stage, exactly when foragers pick, they are very hard to tell apart. Do not eat foraged plants; use only leaves from plants you raised from identified stock. The smell of a cut root is sometimes offered as a test, but it is not something a beginner should rely on.

△ Leaf sap plus strong sun — Carrot-family plants carry coumarin-type compounds, and cases are reported of skin reddening or blistering where sap sat on skin under prolonged strong sun. Wear gloves when trimming a large batch in midday summer heat, and wash with soap if sap gets on your hands. Wash a child's hands too after they have been handling the leaves.

△ While taking anticoagulants — Angelica species have been reported as possibly interacting with anticoagulants such as warfarin. Anyone on such medication should hold off on suddenly eating large amounts of the leaf or drinking strong infusions until they have spoken to their doctor or pharmacist. The same applies during pregnancy or before surgery. A few leaves as a wrap and a strong decoction are not the same thing.

Varieties

• Chamdanggwi (Korean angelica) (seedling) — Angelica gigas Nakai. Deep purple flowers. Young leaves as a wrap, root used as a herbal material
• Wae-danggwi (Japanese angelica) (seedling) — Angelica acutiloba. Softer leaves; the 'danggwi leaf' sold as a salad green is usually this one
• Chinese angelica (seed) — Angelica sinensis. Grown mainly in China and Taiwan. Rarely field-grown in Korea